Thursday night Kristin dropped me off at the trail head off I-70 and I set out for Annapolis Rocks to camp for the night. I was carrying mostly new gear with me. New shoes, a new pack, a tent, sleeping pad, and top quilt. All gear changes made over the past week courtesy of REI and Wilderness Logics. I planned to hike north into Pennsylvania for the next four days, stopping somewhere on Memorial Day. I reached Annapolis Rocks with a good hour of sunlight left and hung out for a while just taking in the view. It started raining a bit, enough that I opened my umbrella to cover my pack so it would stay dry. I refilled my water from the spring nearby and found an empty campsite to set up in. It was a warm night. This was the first weather I’ve been out in that will be similar to Maine in July. The overnight lows for the area were forecast to be in the mid-60’s, and at elevation I figured it would still be about 60 degrees.
It took me a while to fall asleep, as the sleeping pad was new to me, but I felt much more comfortable in the tent than I did in my hammock. I awoke Friday morning and figured it must have been 8 or 9 am, though I was still pretty tired. I figured this was due to waking up several times in the night, but then I looked at my phone and it was just before 7:00 am. No wonder I was still tired! I’m rarely up that early during the work week. Amazing how daylight will automatically wake you up. I slowly packed things up, knowing the earlier I got started the earlier I would need to stop. I had my second MRE, a breakfast one with a scary looking sausage patty and a pancake. I chewed the gum afterward just in case, Paul!
I was moving by 8:30 and I had covered about 6 miles by noon. Around 2:00 pm I hit an exceedingly difficult climb, 600 feet of elevation gain over half a mile or so. My energy levels were on empty, and it was the hottest part of the day. I knew I needed more calories but my stomach felt full from all the water I had been drinking to stay hydrated. By the time I reached the top of the climb I was wondering how in the world I was going to climb Katahdin on my first day. Katahdin is over 4,000 feet of elevation gain over 5 miles. It would be the equivalent of the the climb I struggled to make 7 times over. My legs were capable by my heart was not; I’m not as conditioned as I should be. I stopped at least three times during that climb because I could feel my core temperature rising with my heart rate and I knew continuing would mean fainting or possibly a heatstroke.
I was completed gassed after the climb. My mind was thinking nothing but negative thoughts and I wanted to be anywhere but where I was. It was at that moment I realized the irony of my position. I thought a thru-hike would be a great way to experience freedom but here I sat feeling like I was imprisoned. I couldn’t teleport myself somewhere else; I had no choice but to keep going. It actually felt claustrophobic because all I could see was the woods. I was completely surrounded by tree canopy, no open sky anywhere. In that moment, my time in the woods felt exactly like my time at work and that notion of freedom was shattered.
I trudged on for another couple of miles, reaching a side trail for High Rock. By this point I was questioning everything I was doing. I wanted nothing more than to call someone and leave but I knew doing so meant it was likely the end of my thru-hike aspirations in their current form. I was at a loss. I had been building this dream up for the last two years and I was having to face the reality that it might not be what I thought it would. I took my pack off and just laid in the middle of the trail for a while. I texted Kristin, explaining my predicament. No one could reach me for a few hours anyway so I figured I’d hike the 3 miles to Pen Mar. Perhaps I would come to my senses and I’d camp for another night. I could wake in the morning feeling like it was another glorious day. Somehow I accidentally took the side trail and ended up at High Rock. The view was stunning and there was a paved road, a big parking lot, and an open area with shade. I decided I’d had enough and told Kristin to come get me. I’d packed a book for this trip so I spent the next two hours reading while she made the drive up. By the time she reached me it had cooled considerably and I felt much better than I had just a few hours earlier. Still I threw my pack in the car and we drove home.
They say the ability to complete a long distance hike is 90% mental. That is no frickin’ joke! It’s amazing how you can experience such a range of emotions just walking through the woods. I still haven’t made up my mind about what I’m going to do but here are some of my thoughts.
A Bum Knee
In January 2014, my left knee gave out in a volleyball game. An MRI was inconclusive. The doctor said there was some minor evidence of an ACL tear, but he wasn’t certain. Based on my symptoms I strongly suspected it was. Unfortunately, there are only two remedies to an ACL tear. Surgery, or exercise to strengthen all the surrounding muscles in the knee. Over the last year I have not been very active. My desk job provides no exercise and my initiative outside of work has been lacking. This is entirely my fault. On my hike two weekends ago, I tweaked something in that knee again and the problem still lingers. The level of pain comes and goes but it raises the question of whether hiking 15-20 miles a day for days on end is even possible.
Overly Ambitious Timeline?
I know that my pace will improve after the first few weeks as I become more conditioned but I’m questioning if I have been too ambitious about how long it will take me to complete the hike. Five months would have me finishing at the end of November. That means moving through the Smokies in the middle of November, which carries the risk of winter weather that can cause significant problems. Really I had hoped to finish in four months. Most thru-hikers would tell you this is a very fast pace, but many folks take a bunch of zero days. I had planned to take just enough to do what I needed to. Without knowing how my lingering knee issues would play out on-trail, I question if it was unwise to have my timeline running right into winter. An earlier start would have left me extra time with fair weather. Instead, the longer it takes me the higher the risk is that I will face winter weather, the right combination of which could end the hike altogether.
This One Goes To 11
To compound my knee problem, I seem to only have one hiking speed and that’s GO! It’s something that happens subconsciously and I don’t tend to think about it until I notice my body starting to tire. The problem with this is that I’m not currently fit enough to hike 10-12 hours at that pace. Using Friday as an example, I probably should have stopped at the first shelter after that monstrous climb but it was only 2:00 pm. What was I going to do with the last 6 hours of daylight once I was there? My dream of thru-hiking does not include being bored half the day. You might think a little boredom wouldn’t be a big deal since I’d been active all day long but the combination of hiking at a speed that is physically taxing and constantly having to concentrate on where you are stepping means your mind doesn’t have the chance to wander. So for the last five hours I’d already been mentally idle. I craved mental stimulation by that point, which leads me to the next concern.
Being Alone
I thought being alone during a thru-hike would be nice, a chance to think and separate myself from civilization for a spell. What I didn’t realize is that too much of it feels maddening. I didn’t feel lonely so much as I missed the ability to use my brain by communicating with other people. The number of Southbound thru-hikers is only 10% of the number of Northbound thru-hikers. Maybe I was wrong. Maybe I do need some social interaction to keep my sanity, even if it was only at the end of the day before going to sleep. With just limited experience, I can already see how the pull of a group could be so strong during a hike. The absence of mental stimulus all day would only serve to make the reward of communication and camaraderie that much more powerful. I now seriously question if I could hike for 120 days continuously without some type of mental stimulation on a regular basis, whether that was in the form of a hiking partner or simply hiking among enough people that you knew most nights there would be someone to talk to at a shelter.
I Love My Wife
I thought I wouldn’t have a problem being away from Kristin for four or five months. I would miss her but this was a dream that I really wanted to accomplish. Spending a few nights in the woods, devoid of conversation with anyone, and preparing for 120-150 days of this really drives home what it will feel like though. I found that what I thought and how I felt were an ocean apart. There is very much a part of me that would like her to share this dream with me. However, just because it is my dream doesn’t mean it is hers. I proceeded without her because the transition in our lives right now was the perfect opportunity for me to go, but not for both of us to go. Given a choice, I absolutely would prefer to take in those magic moments with her. I now wonder if having her with me to experience those moments is even more important to me than realizing this dream without her.
The Distraction of a Larger Dream
When I finished the thru-hike, I was to begin the process of building our house in North Carolina. As much as I am enamored with the thought of accomplishing a thru-hike, that dream doesn’t hold a candle to my North Carolina dream. I’m always thinking about North Carolina, more so than the hike, and I wonder if this distraction will prevent me from really getting what I wanted out of my experience on the AT.
…….
All of these questions, doubts, and realizations have me wondering if I haven’t set myself up for failure. It’s also possible that the dream is only one I wish to do, instead of actually doing it. I must consider that, given that I haven’t hiked from dawn to dusk with 30 pounds on my back prior to preparing for this adventure. Perhaps all this preparation has yielded information that makes it clear that I shouldn’t pursue this now. The Appalachian mountains aren’t going anywhere and a hiking partner and a stronger knee would probably give me a much better chance of finishing the thru-hike. The goal after all is to finish. If I simply wanted to get away I don’t need to quit my job and upend my life for that. The goal is to walk all 2,190 miles of the Appalachian Trail.
I find myself at peace with the thought of delaying the thru-hike if what I’ve learned means making me more prepared (adequately prepared?) and stronger for a future thru-hike attempt, perhaps with Kristin along with me. I am also okay with realizing a thru-hike is only a dream I wished for. All dreams begin this way and it is only upon pursuing them that we can find the ones that are so important that we must achieve them. If I pursued all my dreams with the passion I’ve had about this dream there would be a wasteland of discarded dreams around me. But I wouldn’t think of it for all the dreams I’d have accomplished. I simply wish to say thank you for sharing in this journey with me, whether I decide to head to Maine or if this has instead been a valuable life lesson and a stepping stone to greater things.